Being one of the boldest and most dynamic cuts in the hair world, the asymmetrical pixie cut might seem like a high-maintenance choice. And yes, it can be—but today’s cohort of skilled stylists has cracked the code on making this timeless style more versatile and manageable than ever before.
You’ve seen it on tastemakers like Florence Pugh, Yesly Dimate, and Taylor Russell, each putting their own modern spin on the legacy hairstyle. Thinking of going peroxide-blonde like Pugh? Or giving it a sleek, ultra-modern twist with a gelled texture, à la Russell? These subtle tweaks in texture and finish are exactly what keep the asymmetrical pixie feeling fresh today—and far less rigid than its 2000s predecessor.
But before you commit to the chop, it’s worth getting the full story. From the reality of the grow-out phase to the ways you can style and adapt the pixie cut, a little prep goes a long way.
How to Cut an Asymmetrical Pixie Cut
It’s all in the name, but there are different ways you can achieve asymmetry—or give the appearance of it—says Neale Rodger, director of STIL Salon.
“A classic asymmetric pixie would usually be cut with one side longer than the other. However, the difficulty with this is you have to work with two completely different shapes on each side of the head, while still creating the effect of flow and balance. The last thing you want to see on an asymmetrical shape is one side appearing bulky and heavy—especially through the back and behind the ears. If you work with a completely asymmetrical shape, it will lock the wearer into a specific direction and style, so it’s not my favorite way of creating this cut.”
Rodger says his preferred approach to cutting asymmetrically is to actually go completely symmetrical. “So, in essence, creating a completely symmetrical shape around the back and side to ensure the perfect visual and technical balance,” he shares.
“By allowing a longer length on top, as though the hair were all standing on end, it will create a teardrop shape that can be pushed to either side, or even swept backward into slicked or quiffed styles,” he adds. “The technical term for this is bias cutting, which is a method inspired by bias cutting fabric. I also prefer this way of cutting asymmetrically because it is much easier to recreate the shape when the client returns, or even if they decide to grow it out.”
Who Looks Best With an Asymmetrical Pixie Cut?
Everyone can wear an asymmetrical pixie cut. In fact, as Rodger says, “The old-school rules don’t apply anymore: Do what you want and do it with confidence.” Amen.
Good to know, though, is that “this look will lengthen round faces, and also works well for oval and heart-shaped faces. It can be used to create balance on long faces, and executed correctly it can be a very versatile and flattering shape.”
How to Grow Out an Asymmetrical Pixie Cut
Ultra-short hairstyles like an asymmetrical pixie cut require a level of commitment, so it’s important to know what you’re signing up for. Grow-out phases are notoriously difficult and patience-testing, but there are precautions you can take at the cutting stage to ensure a smooth departure from the style.
“The key to growing out an asymmetrical shape is to first focus on achieving balance with your hairstylist, and then I would concentrate on getting length into the shape,” Rodger explains.
“You may need to leave one side, such as the shorter side, and bring the longer side up to match. If you have gone for a symmetrical asymmetrical shape (like the bias cutting technique mentioned above), then you won’t need to go through that process, and I would just allow it to grow to your desired length.”
How to Style an Asymmetrical Pixie Cut
Styling an asymmetrical pixie cut isn’t the chore you might imagine. The general rule is that the less styling, the better. Rodger notes that overstyling is what can date the look, so be mindful of this as you go.
“Styling an asymmetrical pixie cut depends on the two different ways the look has been created. If you go for a fixed parting with a true asymmetrical shape, you are pretty much set in that style. The only way you can switch up the look is to either blow-dry, diffuse for a natural look, or use heated styling tools to create texture.”
“If you’ve gone for the symmetrical asymmetrical shape, then you’re super free to style as you wish. You can wear it to any side, slicked back, coiffed, or down at the front. This way is much more versatile and gives you greater freedom.”
