Birkin disciples and Hermès loyalists have heard the story countless times—one chance encounter on a transatlantic flight, and the rest is history. As the story goes, actress and style icon Jane Birkin was attempting to stow her over-stuffed wicker basket in the overhead compartment when its contents tumbled into the lap of her seatmate: one Jean-Louis Dumas, then the artistic director of Hermès. After Birkin shared her frustration with the dearth of beautifully spacious handbags, Dumas presented her with a sketch, and in 1985, a prototype. Today, that same prototype was auctioned by Sotheby’s for $10.1 million (nearly five times the price of the most expensive Birkin ever designed).

The sale took place in Paris this morning, and there was no doubt that competition would be fierce. With nine bidders and lasting a mere 10 ten minutes, even more handbag history was made. World records were shattered in seconds as bidding opened at $1.7 million. (In comparison, the previous highest recorded auction price for a handbag was the Hermès White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28, which sold for $513,040 in 2021). Bids rapidly ascended through the millions, warranting both gasps and applause even before the final hammer. The winning bid came from a private collector via telephone through Maiko Ichikawa, country head of Sotheby's Japan.

The sale now holds three titles: the most valuable handbag ever sold at auction, the new record for fashion item sold in Europe, and most valuable luxury item ever sold at Sotheby’s Paris. The current record for auction of any fashion item remains the Red Ruby Slippers from The Wizard of Oz, which sold for $32.5 million in 2024.

mandatory credit: photo by mike daines/shutterstock (255529e) jane birkin at her mothers house in london, uk various 1996
Mike Daines/Shutterstock
Jane Birkin and her signature customized bag.

“I am astonished at the result but, as a passionate collector myself, I am first and foremost profoundly moved by the way other collectors have invested so much fervor in trying to acquire what they clearly desired beyond words,” said Catherine B, the last owner of the prototype, in a statement. “I’m already very nostalgic at the thought of knowing the bag is no longer mine, but extremely happy it has found a new, loving home. I wish the new owner as much happiness as I experienced with it.”

As fashion rapidly cycles through trends, from bag charms to Labubus, Birkin’s idiosyncratic style has never been more revered. The actress, even before her passing in 2023, has long been considered the pinnacle of authentic expression—the humble origins of her eponymous handbag serve as proof. Those who attempt to emulate her enduring allure point to the fact that she actually used her pieces, allowing them to naturally wear and tear (the auctioned prototype certainly reflects this). The same logic follows other elusive style icons like Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and the Olsen twins.

Authenticity will always be fashion’s white wale. Turns out, the pursuit of it sells, and it sells exceedingly well.